We once intended to close the series of articles about common mistakes when wearing suits. But it seems that the problems are still quite a lot, so here are some other tips for you to avoid.
Mistake 1: If your legs are short, go for no break pants
In terms of simple geometry, no break pants create a discontinuous separation between the foot and the shoe. It makes you look shorter. Pants are usually tapered these days, if your legs are short (and worse, your thighs are big), wearing no break pants will make you look like a carrot.
No break pants are best for those with long and small legs. At that time, wearing no break will help balance the proportions.
Mistake 2: Tailoring must fit perfectly to the body
More precisely, to correct this concept, tailoring is to rebalance the body proportions. Not everyone has a perfect body. Most people have flaws: people have lopsided shoulders, people with flat breasts, people with big stomachs, people with short legs… If they’re just tailored fit to those defects, it would only emphasize the flaws. Tailoring is to find a way to balance the proportions. Shoulder deviation is handled so that it looks more balance, big belly is handled so that it looks neater…
It is very important to understand your body and needs when it comes to tailoring. Because, with each body type, with each individual need, there is a different way to handle it. If from the beginning there is a clear discussion and agreement between the tailor and the customer, the final result will certainly be more satisfactory.
Mistake 3: Ideal Black
We’ve written on this topic before, if you need to, read it again here. Plain black suit isn’t the first suit you need. You’ll probably need one, but not for the first time, unless you’re after the Tom Ford style. Because, in permanent style, black is not as easy to use as in fast fashion. It’s really difficult to match with other items. If you really like dark colors, instead of black, choose dark blue or charcoal. As for the first suits and want to be easy to wear, easy to coordinate as well as promote safety, choose navy or medium grey.
Mistake 4: Oxford not brogues
Kingsman did a great job promoting the permanent style. But not every point of view in the film is easy to apply. In particular, “Oxford not brogues” is a rather extreme point of view and needs to be understood in a more “casual” way. Because no brogue black oxford is the most formal shoes kind among the popular dress shoes. As a result, it is very difficult to match it with less formal outfits. Most modern social environments don’t need that kind of formality.
In addition, oxfords are also much more inconvenient than loafers, which do not need to spend time tying shoelaces. Buying ready-to-wear (or off-the-rack) oxford shoes is also more difficult to fit than derbies or loafers.
Therefore, instead of black oxfords, the first pair of shoes should be dark penny loafers. It’s still formal enough to wear with a suit, and versatile enough to wear even with shorts in the summer. If loafers are too casual for you, try monkstrap, derby instead of oxford. Oxford (and with no brogue), like the black suit, should only be purchased when you already have a certain number of shoes in your wardrobe.