Are you ready to take your suit game to the next level? As the saying goes, “dress for success” and nothing says success like a perfectly fitted suit. However, if you’re new to wearing suits, it can be overwhelming to navigate the different styles, colors, and accessories. Don’t worry, we’re here to help you avoid common suit mistakes so you can confidently rock your next formal event. From choosing the right fabric to nailing the perfect fit, we’ve got all the tips and tricks you need to know. So, let’s dive in and make sure you’re looking sharp and stylish!
7 common mistake suit wearing
If we break down suit wearing, there will be a lot of mistakes by the wearers. To narrow it down, below are a few common mistakes, especially for Vietnamese wearers who are new to the suit game.
Mistake 1: Wearing a suit jacket too long or too short
When it comes to wearing a suit, getting the length and ratio just right is crucial. But this is one of the most common suit mistakes that people make. Many Vietnamese fashion trends have distorted the ideal ratio, and people are often influenced by ready-to-wear clothing from China. This leads to some common suit blunders, such as wearing a suit that’s too long or too tight.
A jacket that is too long can make you appear shorter and sloppier. It can also bunch up at the back and create unflattering folds. Meanwhile, a too short jacket can make you look like you’ve outgrown it. It can also expose your shirt cuffs, making it look like you’re wearing a child’s jacket.
According to Dressing the Man by Alen Flusser, a suit should ideally cover the wearer’s bottom curve and make their legs look as tall as possible. To achieve this, the jacket should at least cover half of the bottom, or longer depending on the wearer’s height. It’s all about finding the right cloth ratio, not necessarily having the perfect figure.
So how do you ensure the perfect fit? There are two simple formulas for the ideal length of a jacket. The first formula is based on the length of the sleeve, while the second formula halves the distance from the neck to the ground. But even with these formulas, finding the perfect length can be challenging because not everyone’s body proportions match up perfectly. That’s where a good tailor comes in! They can help you find the perfect length and button placement for a sharp, stylish look.
Another small tip is never tuck the lowest button! This will create a divided upper and lower part of the suit, maximizing your leg length. Normally, the button should be placed 1.5 cm under the waist. With these tips, you’ll be rocking your suit like a fashion pro in no time!
Readmore: Vietnam tailored suits
Mistake 2: Wearing low-rise trousers for suit
The second suit mistake that people make is using low-rise trousers. One issue that arises is that people don’t understand the correct ratio between jeans, khakis, trousers, and more. Many people prefer low-rise jeans, and they apply this style to trousers as well. However, this is not a good idea because it makes people with short legs look even shorter and makes those with a fat belly look even bulkier.
The perfect suit needs to have all the pieces put together nicely to make the owner look good. This means that the trousers must be well-matched with the jacket’s curve. If you have a comfortable jacket that fits your body, pair it with regular-fit trousers. But if your jacket is tight-fitting, then you should wear slim-fit trousers.
An ideal trouser for a suit should be one to two centimeters longer to make room for movement, it should be gradually tight from above to the lower part of the natural pose. Its waist should be approximately placed at the height of the belly button, or more precisely, the waist of the trouser should be placed in the wearer’s waist rather than their hip. This not only makes the hip look slimmer (thanks to the tightness of the trouser’s waist) but also flatten the belly and lengthen the leg, perfectly matched with the upper jacket. You should not wear too tight a trouser as it could not help covering some weakness of the leg namely big thigh, bow legs and so on.
Mistake 3: Too small lapel
One mistake people make when wearing a suit is choosing a lapel that is too small. The width of the lapel should match the width of the shoulder, which is usually between 8-10 cm long. Lapels that are too wide or too narrow are not fashionable, and are only worn by people with unusual taste who want their picture taken at fashion events.
The height of the gorge, which is where the lapel meets the collar, is also important. If it is placed too low, the lapel will look shorter and make the wearer look shorter and bulkier. People with limited height should have their lapel placed higher to lengthen their silhouette. For tall people, the lapel can be lower as their jacket is already long.
While there is no perfect height for the lapel, experienced tailors know how to judge it. The V-shape of the open part of the chest should also match the lapel. A closed flap is more formal, while an open one is more casual and trendy.
Mistake 4: Overly black mix
One mistake people make when dressing up is relying too much on the black color. Black is a practical color that can hide stains and wrinkles, but wearing a full-black outfit can be uncreative and boring. People often wear black to feel thinner or to look formal, but there are many other colors to choose from that are just as versatile.
Black clothing tends to age poorly, and after a few washes, it can look cheap and show deodorant stains. It also absorbs a lot of heat from the sun and is not as versatile as people think. Navy, for example, can be mixed with almost any color except black.
Instead of black, consider other colors like charcoal, grey, brown, navy, olive, or other shades of black. Charcoal is a great alternative that is easier to wear and looks just as stylish. Brown shoes are also more versatile than black shoes when it comes to mixing and matching with clothes.
While black is still a good choice for formal events like dinners or funerals, it’s important to mix up your wardrobe with other colors to show your creativity and sense of style.
Readmore: Clothing color wheel
Mistake 5: Over-accessorizing
One of the most common mistakes people make when accessorizing is wearing too many pieces at once. This can make your outfit look cluttered and messy. Instead, choose one or two accessories that enhance your outfit without overwhelming it.
Another mistake is wearing accessories that clash with your outfit. Accessories should complement your outfit, not distract from it. For example, sometimes a waist-bell is unnecessary. It breaks who wholeness of a suit, left alone the fact that it makes the suit jacket look more bulging. Instead, use suspenders or side tab trousers.
Remember, the goal of accessorizing is to enhance your outfit, not steal the show. Keep it simple and understated, and you’ll always look polished and put together.
Mistake 6: Oxford not brogues
The movie “Kingsman” did a great job of promoting classic, timeless style. However, not all the ideas presented in the movie are practical for everyone. For example, the phrase “Oxford not brogues” can be seen as an extreme point of view and may not be suitable for all occasions. Black oxford shoes without brogues are the most formal type of dress shoe, making them difficult to match with less formal outfits. In most modern social settings, that level of formality is not necessary.
In addition, oxford shoes are less convenient than loafers because they require time to tie shoelaces. Buying ready-to-wear oxfords can also be difficult because they need to fit perfectly. For these reasons, it’s recommended to buy dark penny loafers as your first pair of formal shoes. They are still formal enough to wear with a suit, but also versatile enough to wear with shorts in the summer. If you find loafers too casual, you can try monk strap or derby shoes instead of oxfords. Oxford shoes without brogues should only be purchased once you already have a few other shoes in your wardrobe.
Mistake 7: improper tie length and wrong socks
Properly tying a tie and wearing the right length is an essential part of a well-dressed man’s outfit. The tip of the tie should rest on the middle of the belt buckle. If it is too long, it will make the wearer look sloppy and unprofessional. On the other hand, if it’s too short, it can make the outfit look unbalanced.
Another aspect of the tie to consider is the knot. A knot that is too large can overwhelm the collar of the shirt, while a knot that is too small can look sloppy and unimpressive. It is important to choose the right knot based on the type of collar of the shirt.
When it comes to socks, the common mistake that many men make is wearing the wrong color or style for the occasion. Wearing white sports socks with a suit or dress shoes is a fashion faux pas. A pair of dress socks that match the color of the pants or shoes is the best option. A colorful pair of socks can be a great way to add some personality to the outfit, but they should be reserved for less formal occasions.
It is also important to consider the length of the socks. Visible leg skin between the bottom of the pants and the top of the socks is a major style mistake. The socks should be long enough to cover the leg, but not so long that they bunch up or sag.
Dressing well is not just about following the latest fashion trends, but it’s also about understanding the rules of formal wear and creating a sense of personal style. By avoiding common mistakes like wearing the wrong fit, improper tie length, wrong socks, over-accessorizing, and more, you can create a sophisticated look that will make you stand out in any social or professional setting. So, take the time to Tailor Bros more often and you’ll be on your way to mastering the art of formal wear.