Summer temperatures in tropical countries can reach 40 degrees Celsius. This time of year is clearly not ideal for wearing a jacket. But that doesn’t mean it’s impossible. Just remember, a summer jacket should be different from a regular suit jacket.
The first thing you need to consider on a summer jacket is the material. Choose natural material, usually linen or cotton, to ensure good perspiration. Linen or wool-silk-linen are perfect choices for summer jackets. Cotton is not bad, but its shape is not really ideal. Hopsack and fresco are also great options with open weaves, are super cool and also hold the shape very well. But also because of the open woven fabric, these two materials need better care, especially when making pants.
Since it’s a summer jacket, try to make it as soft as possible. To do so, it is necessary to simplify the jacket structure. When it comes to structure, there are usually three parts to keep in mind: lining, interlining and padding.
To reduce padding, simply remove the shoulder padding. For lining, consider doing half-lining or unlined. The back and front flap of the shirt will then have only one layer, making the shirt lighter and more comfortable. Interlining is more complex, which is the padding inside the front of the jacket. It is usually made of fused, half-canvas or full-canvas form. But we are trying to simplify the structure, so the jacket will have only an outer layer of fabric. This is the biggest reduction, which will make the garment significantly lighter.
There is a formula that always holds true: the more details, the more casual. Following this recipe, let’s discuss the details on a summer jacket, which should prioritize the liberal.
Shoulders should follow a shirt-shoulder pattern, without shoulder padding for optimal comfort. Notch lapel should be accented with stiching lines for a more casual look. Chest pocket can be made into the typical Napoli “barchetta” style or patch. Side pockets should be patched. The pockets should also be stitched for a more casual look.
The proportions on a summer jacket may differ slightly from the standard proportions of a regular formal suit. That difference may come from the length: summer jackets should be shorter than suit jackets; or width: summer jackets should be looser and more comfortable than suit jackets.
Of course, all the details mentioned above are suggestions from us. Please choose for yourself among those suggestions to have a jacket that suits you best and has the most personal identity.