We’ve already discussed a few components of a suit’s perfect fit in our recent article, and the other factors will be addressed in this second section. Gaining insight from the points covered in this series will help you communicate with your tailor more effectively, resulting in an ideally-fitted custom suit.
Chest Closure
An important part of the fit that applies to men’s bespoke suits is how a suit feels when it’s buttoned. The bottom button of your jacket should always be left undone. With the remaining buttons fastened, the jacket should embrace your body gently from the shoulders to the bottom of the suit. There should be no strain and the closure shouldn’t have any wrinkles around it. The jacket is small if it feels tight and there’s an unattractive X-shaped wrinkle there.
A small gap at the bottom of the jacket is acceptable, but the two halves beneath the button shouldn’t separate to the point where a big triangle of shirt is visible above your trousers. While a little bit of your shirt may show when you move, a well-fitted suit jacket usually covers most of your shirt, especially the part near your belt.
Sleeves
When wearing a jacket, it’s advisable to have a half-inch of your shirt cuffs visible underneath the sleeves. Since this is just a general rule, you don’t have to be too obsessive about it, you just need to ensure that the shirt cuffs are not completely concealed by the jacket sleeves, and the seam connecting the shirt cuff to the shirt sleeve should never be visible.
The jacket sleeves should fit your arms snugly without being too tight. To allow for comfortable and unrestricted movement of your arms, you should also ensure that the armholes do not pierce your armpits.
Seat
Trousers also make a big difference in how you look while wearing a suit. Without a belt to hold them up, suit trousers should sit at your natural waist, which is higher than your jeans. A well-fitted seat should lie loosely against your underwear without squeezing tightly on your bottom or draping too far down your thighs.
When the trousers are too tight, there will be horizontal creases just under the buttocks. The cloth on the back of your thighs will start to form sagging U-shaped folds if the seat is too loose.
Trousers Break
Generally, your trousers are shorter than the ideal length if your socks protrude excessively while standing. If they are too long, you’ll have extra material bunching up in the front of your pants.
An easy way to tell if your trousers are in the right length is observing the “break”. It’s the little crease that appears when your shoe’s top stops your trouser cuff from reaching its full length. It’s up to each person how much break is appropriate for their pair of trousers.
The typical trouser break is when the trouser lightly touches the shoes and there is one horizontal wrinkle or dimple. Trouser length variations are okay as long as the trousers sit over the shoes’ heels.
Discover Your Own Fit with Tailor Bros
Helping our customers feel and look confident has always been our goal at Tailor Bros, and we achieve this by a meticulous process starting from precise measurements. We hope that you will grasp the ideal fit of a suit with this guidance.
Discover some recommendations for custom-made clothing in Hanoi in this article: What to get tailored in Hanoi?
