How Should a Men’s Suit Fit? (Part 1)
The finest tailored suits don’t always come from picking the priciest material or the trendiest style, and getting a great fit is always the first step towards looking great in a suit.
When putting on a suit, you should make sure that it fits well in your “natural stance,” which is an upright pose with your arms relaxed by your sides. This posture is the foundation for most of our body movement. If the suit doesn’t fit properly in this position, it won’t move pleasantly with your body. In the first part of this two-part series, we’ll discover some of the elements which define a well-fitted suit.
Jacket Shoulders
The shoulders of a custom jacket should be the first area you examine while trying it on. As everyone knows, bespoke suits can always be altered. However, some parts, including shoulders, are much harder to alter than others. But it’s much harder to change some portions than others. It’s important that the shoulders fit properly at the first fitting.
Your suit jacket’s shoulder pads should finish where your shoulders do, lying flat. The seam on top of the jacket shoulder should touch the jacket sleeve at the point where your arm and shoulder connect. Any creases or bulges in this area are highly noticeable and call attention to how ill-fitting the suit is. The rest of the jacket will sit incorrectly whether the shoulder is too tight or too loose.
Jacket Collar
Always try the jacket on while wearing a dress shirt. If it’s a 3-piece suit, make sure you have the waistcoat on as well. The back of your shirt collar should lay against the back of your neck, and your jacket collar should rest softly against it. There shouldn’t be any large spaces between any of these; they should all touch lightly.
As necessary, turn from side to side and examine your jacket collar in a mirror. In addition to causing bunching and folds right beneath it, a tight collar will wrinkle the shirt collar as well. There will also be a significant space between the jacket collar and the nape of your neck if the collar is too loose.
Jacket Length
The ideal length for a suit jacket is when it falls over your waist and reaches about your thumb knuckle when your arms are resting at your sides. It doesn’t have to be exact since body types are incredibly diverse, so variations within an inch of that range is okay. This is regarded as a mid-length fit and is usually a safe option for suit jackets.
Your jacket is too short if the hem rests on top of the butt and has a tiny flare in the rear. If it covers the bottom completely and is longer than the arms, it’s too long. You should be able to adjust the hem by an inch or two, but if you go too far, the front pockets will look out of place.
If you find this article useful, check out the second part of this series to learn more about determining a suit’s fit.
