Men’s dress codes were not made for fun. They make it easier for men to wear everyday, as long as they remember the formulas. The length of the pants is also one of the standardized details in dress.
Length levels “within the standard”
Any length that makes the pants too short or too long is “unqualified”. But how to determine which is the standard? We’ll help you master this principle through the following short to long length options.
No break/cropped hem
The no break trouser style means the pant cuff barely touches the top of the shoe, and there is no resulting horizontal crease. In more extreme examples, the cuff itself may end around 2 cm above the shoe, which is considered a cropped hem.
The cropped hem style looks best with more modern suiting, and slim trousers. A fuller cut trouser or a straight leg may not look right, simply because of the width of the leg opening. However, a standard no-break hem (pant cuff barely resting on top of the shoe) can work well even with fuller cut trousers.
Quarter break (Slight break)
This style is the perfect middle ground between the classic medium break, and the cropped hem. Quarter break (or slight break) refers to the cuff barely resting on top of the shoe, and the slightest horizontal crease in the pants fabric.
Also, the back of the pants cuffs hit near the top of the shoe, where the opening is.
This type of trouser break works best with modern style suiting and slimmer, tapered trousers. If you have a full cut, straight leg trouser, this type of break may not work well.
Half break (Medium break)
The half break (or medium break) is the perfect middle ground for most guys. This is also the traditional length for dress pants, which is why you’ll see it most often.
If you’re ever unsure about which length to choose for your trousers, this is the safest route to take. You’ll look clean and polished, and the break is neither sloppy nor trendy. It’s just classic.
This length is characterized by one half fold in the fabric when the cuff is resting on the shoe. Typically the back of the pants cuff hits the middle of the counter, between the opening and the top of the heel.
Full break
There’s a fine line between a full break style and too much break. A full break trouser has one generous fold of fabric that sits on top of the shoe.
You can tell when dress pants are too long, or have too much of a break, by the number of folds in the pant leg where it meets the shoe. More than one fold? Too much break, which looks sloppy.
If you have more than one fold when standing straight, you’ll need your tailor to shorten the length of your pants slightly. Also, if your heels are stepping on the back of the pants as you walk, and if your trousers have frayed cuffs, your pants are probably too long.
