Having realized that suit and the basic principles of wearing it nice is still a struggle for many bros out there, Tailor Bros will start a lunar new year by a series of common mistakes made by Viet wearers. Let get start with Suit Jacket.
Mistake 1: A jacket with an unapproriate length
This is one of the most common mistakes made by Viet wearers. When it comes to Suit, a fashionable wearers doesn’t necessarily have an ideal figure, it is the ratio of the cloth that counts! In fact, classic wear have already had everything calculated, however, after many fashion trends, the basic ratio has been distorted. This is especially true in Vietnam where fashion is greatly influenced by made-in China clothes.
According to Dressing the Man by Alen Flusser, a suit has its ideal length when covers the wearer’s curve of bottom while making the leg look as tall as possible. This means that ready-to-wear jacket which merely touches the hip will not make the suit a whole. The jacket, at least, has to cover half of the bottom, it can be longer depends on the wearer’s height.
While being considered as crucial, this ratio is still not popular among Viet wearer who is greatly affected by made-in China ready-to-wears. Some people tend to have a too long a suit, while the younger generation wear it too tight. Together with the fact that Oriental men don’t have the ideal figure as their Western counterparts, suit become less practical and formal in Vietnam than it should be.
There are two simple formulars for the ideal length of a jacket. The first bases on the length of the sleeve. A wearer in the comfortable pose with has his lap at the same height with the grip of the hand. However, this formular has a weakness because not every body has their arm perfectly matched their body ratio.
There are two simple formulars for the ideal length of a jacket. The first bases on the length of the sleeve. A wearer in the comfortable pose with has his lap at the same height with the grip of the hand. However, this formular has a weakness because not every body has their arm perfectly matched their body ratio.
The second way is to halve the distion from the neck (where the collars meet the lower part of the jacket) to the ground. While more precise, this way is not flawless. A good tailor can tell the perfect length just using his sense.
The button location is also very important. A principal to remember is: NEVER TUCK THE LOWEST BUTTON.
The tucked button, if placed accurately, would devide the upper part of the suit and the leg into two parts with maximum length. Normally it is placed 1,5 cm under the waist.