Mistake 3: Small lapel

Normally, the lapel’s width depends on the width of the shoulder which is 8-10 cm long. Too big or to narrow lapels are only used by wearers with unusual taste, who wandering around with a hope of their pictures taken in Pitti Uomo. While we often come across these photos on the internet, they are not an ideal source for the style we should follow. The only exception is peak label which width is a bit bigger than notch lapel’s.

You also need to pay attention to the gorge’s height (see picture). If placed too low, it would make the lapel look shorter and therefore affected the wearers: they would look shorter and bulkier. For people with a limited height, the lapel should be placed a bit higher to lengthen the lapel line. For the same reason, the lapel on the jacket of high people can be lower because the jacket has already long.

For the ordered long jacket compared to the wearer’s figure ratio, the gorge can be lower even when the owner is not too high. However, the standard technique are those I have shared above. It is hard to decide what is the perfect height or the ideal place of the lapels. The judgement would belong to the experience of the fitter.

The V-shape open parton the chest has to be made base on the lapel. It should not be too big if the chest space is too narrow and vice versa. This

greatly affects the formality of the suit. English gentlemen who are rather conservative prefer a closed flap while more open-minded Italian would fancy an open one.

In the final part, I would share some tips to mix clothes and choose the right accessory while wearing suit.